July 27, 2026 · Fragrance knowledge
IFRA and Allergens: Why Oakmoss Smells Different
Why a classic from 1970 no longer smells the way it used to.
2 min read
Anyone who knows vintage perfumes and smells them alongside current versions often notices a difference. The usual explanations are "they are saving on ingredients" or "everything was better in the past". Usually, neither is true. The real reason is IFRA, a set of regulations that limits the usage levels of certain fragrance ingredients because they can trigger allergies or sensitise the skin. This has forced entire classics to be reformulated.
What IFRA is
The International Fragrance Association is the trade association of the fragrance industry. Its standards are formally voluntary, but in practice binding: virtually every reputable house complies with them, and the EU Cosmetics Regulation adopts many of them. They are based on toxicological assessments, not judgements of taste.
The most famous case: Oakmoss
For decades, oakmoss was the backbone of the Chypre family: earthy, sharp, unmistakable. Two compounds contained within it proved to be strong contact allergens, and their permitted levels were drastically limited. Today, low-allergen oakmoss is used, which lacks some of that sharpness. As a result, Chypre fragrances linger more softly today than they did forty years ago.
What must appear on the packaging
In the EU, 26 fragrance ingredients classified as allergens must currently be listed by name in the ingredients list if they exceed a certain concentration. Names like linalool, limonene, citral, or coumarin are therefore not cause for concern, but rather natural components of essential oils. The list has since been significantly expanded.
What this means for you
For the vast majority of people, nothing. Anyone who reacts to one of these substances will find it on the packaging, thanks to mandatory declaration. On our product pages, the full INCI list can be found under Ingredients, along with the safety instructions.
Quick questions
What is IFRA?
The trade association of the fragrance industry. Its standards limit the usage levels of substances that can trigger allergies.
Why do vintage perfumes smell different today?
Because regulated raw materials like oakmoss have been replaced or restricted, forcing perfume houses to reformulate.
The upshot
Regulation has taken some things away from perfumery and given much in return: fewer allergic reactions, greater transparency, and raw materials like sandalwood that would otherwise barely exist anymore. What goes into a fragrance should be something you can read.
